We are still in Tbilisi and today we’re taking a journey further north to Stepantsminda, more commonly known as Kazbegi. It’s just 11kms away from the Russian border! We drive the Georgian Military highway which is also the route of the old Silk Road. Our first stop is a viewpoint over the Zhinvali Water Reservoir which is absolutely beautiful.
Next is the Ananuri Fortress from the 13th century, one of Georgia’s iconic sights. Looking back from the bridge, seeing it perched on the hillside with the dam in view, it really is spectacular.
Inside the church there is a very nice alter with all the usual icons. The one below I particularly like.
We continue to a viewpoint where we see the convergence of two rivers – the white Aragvi and the black Aragvi. You can just about see the difference in colour in the photo below.
From here we head for lunch where we see ladies making kinkhali. I have to say the lady on the right of this photo was hilarious and is definitely my favourite Georgian I’ve met to date!! She was waving and giggling and even threw kinkhalis at the window at us. She must be demented working with sour puss beside her!! She gave me a huge smile as I blew her a kiss goodbye.
Now for the highlight of the trip, we drive a little further and change from the bus to a jeep to take us up higher to Gergeti Trinity Church. The views on the way up are stunning and when we get there it’s just amazing. This church is on a hill, essentially in the middle of nowhere. It’s just stunning!
The views from up here are stunning every which way you looks and there’s a cool low cloud half way up the mountain.
We go into the church for a look but honestly it’s all about the scenery up here. The 14th-century church sits at 2,170 meters and it has been quite a hike to get here so we are relishing every minute.
After driving through the beautiful countryside again and enjoying taking it all in, our next stop is the Russia Georgia Friendship Monument at Gudauri View Point. This was built in conjunction with the Russians in 1983 but since the 2008 war (Russia invaded and still occupies 20% of Georgia) Georgians hate what it stands for. Locals call it “the Soviet lie monument” and there’s constant debate on whether to tear it down.
It’s a cool looking structure to see as you approach it though, as it’s huge and again in the middle of nowhere surrounded by mountains and valleys.
On the inside of the giant concrete arc is a 50 metre mosaic mural. The left side depictions of Georgia, the right side Russia and in the middle the treaty between both.
A final short stop to taste some local honey and chacha (the local firewater) and then it’s time to head back to Tbilisi. It takes over 2 hours to get back to the city and it’s 9:15pm before we are off the bus, everyone tired and hungry. We find a restaurant nearby that appears very basic but turns out to be an absolute gem and we have the most delicious chicken Chkmeruli (chicken in garlic cream sauce). So delicious!
Next day we start with a lazy morning. We’ve planned a Tbilisi day in between our touring days so we don’t have to be on the go every day! We spend a lovely morning in our very nice apartment chilling (well writing this!) and organising ourselves. Around noon we head to the Dezerter market and have a wander around.
There’s all sorts here and we try some kvas which is a fermented bread drink (non alcoholic).
We buy some spices to take home and a kilo of plums for 1 gel – that’s about 33 cents!
A handy kebab for lunch and in the afternoon I enjoy a massage before we hit the bar for a beverage. We bump into the lovely Chinese lady who we met on our trip yesterday and end up chatting with her for about two hours! Back home we have takeaway kinkhali from our neighbours and a glass of red.
Tomorrow we head South…. That’s in the next instalment!
