We set off from Polignano A Mare and stop at Savelletri, a fishing village about 30 minutes south. At Bar Skipper, I somehow manage to order an ice cream pastry for breakfast!
We continue along the coast road and arrive at Torre Canne, another pretty coastal town, this one with a lighthouse.
Back on the road we head for Brindisi. Although most people fly in here and leave for other towns, it’s a nice town in and of itself.
We have sussed out a really good restaurant for lunch and arrive hungry to La Locanda del Porto. I have a delicious pasta with fish and as the wine is almost as cheap as water, I have a wee glass of the house white – so good!
It’s only about another half hour drive to Lecce which is where we’ll stay for the next four nights. A really nice apartment in the old town. We park outside and walk through the narrow streets – I’m really liking the feel of this place.
We meet our host and settle in, which involves heading to the local supermarket for some provisions… liquid ones mostly!
After an apperitivo in one of the small squares, we have dinner at Crianza, the restaurant directly opposite where we’re having a drink. Everyone is happy with their choices and there’s a delicious bottle of red from Salento, which the waitress reckons is their best wine!
After dinner we take a wander around and see the Basilica de Santa Croce.
It’s a pretty large old town with so many winding narrow streets and alleyways. On the slightly bigger roads there are festive lights which make for a very nice atmosphere as we wander around.
Next morning we head to the market and pick up some breakfast supplies.
We set off to do a self guided tour of Lecce old town which is essentially a tour of churches! There’s an entry fee for a lot of them (there are so many!) so we buy a ticket that gets us into all the big ones. We start at the Basilica Santa Croce (which we saw last night), it’s stunning inside with a number of relics.
We enjoy the break from the sun each time we enter another church but there are just too many to capture here. We are also relic hunting and we are not disappointed- again, so many!! One of note is St Bernardino in Chiesa Del Gesu. A lovely statue of him but if you look closely, you can see his skull and bones beside him!
We stop for lunch at Antica Pucceria which has been in operation since 1941. We reckon the menu hasn’t changed much since then and we are served by the third generation owner, who is the young boy in the photo on the wall. The sambos are fantastic.
Feeling somewhat knackered, we head back to the apartment and relax on the top deck which has a small pool. It’s in full sun but delightfully cool.
Tonight we branch out from the traditional restaurants we’ve been eating at and go to a Hambirreria, which is what you’d imagine from the name…. A place of beer and burgers. My burger has pancetta, scamorza and potato on it… it definitely has a Puglia twist!
Australia are playing in the World Cup tonight so we find a bar showing the match and enjoy listening to some great tunes and watching the match. Alas no joy for the Aussies.
On Saturday morning it’s Parkrun time and lucky for us, Salento parkrun is just under a half hour away! It takes place in a remote “regional national park” that seems to double up as an olive farm. There’s a very small group of 34 people, half of whom are visitors. It’s blistering heat so we don’t break any records but are delighted to get it done and to meet a friendly bunch. There may also have been some drama with Rav and a snake but that remains unconfirmed! 😱
In the afternoon we explore the west side of the heel of Italy. First we head to Gallipoli (not to be mistaken for the Turkish peninsula featured in WWI!). It’s a beautiful old town surrounded by water.
We have lunch with a view and I try the ORECCHIETTE ALLE CIME DI RAPA, which is pasta with turnip tops. It certainly does taste of turnips and while I’m a fan of the vegetable, I’m not sure about it with pasta!!
After a wander through the old town, we leave Gallipoli and drive to Nardo. This is a much smaller town but has that lovely old feel to it. The temperature is in the low thirties and we (well I) am roasting so we stop for a Granita a limone in the square. Delightful!
It’s time for a dip in the sea so we make our way to Porto Cesareo and have a delightful dip in the cool (not cold!) water.
For dinner in the evening we go to Osteria da Angiulina, a homely looking establishment, a short walk from our apartment. We didn’t know this ahead of time but the menu was heavy on horse… not something I knew was popular in Italy. I go for a mixed grill, which yes, includes horse. The whole meal is delightful and of course washed down with some very nice wine of the case!
Next day we set off, after a burrata brekkie, for Otranto. Another beautiful historic town on the sea with a castle and a cathedral.
We have a paddle in the clear blue water…
We visit the Cathedral which has the biggest mosaic in Europe. The whole floor of the church is covered in a very impressive mosaic.
We also see the Chapel of the Martyrs, which houses the stacked skulls and bones of 813 local citizens, who in 1480, were publicly beheaded by the Turks as they wouldn’t renounce their catholic faith.
Onwards to the beach. It’s 30+ degrees and we are roasting so we find a beach club at Alimini beach and spend a few hours swimming and chilling! Gorgeous!
For our final dinner we make our way to LA CUCINA di Mamma Elvira and have another delicious local meal. It’s hard to order anything bad in this town!
Next morning we have a quick coffee at the Porta Napoli and it’s time to move on… Lecce you have been beautiful.
odohertyelaine 