New Zealand Part I : Auckland and The Coromandel

I’m on the North Island having flown into Auckland last night and this morning I’m taking a two hour ferry to The Coromandel. The Coromandel is a peninsula sticking out of the top eastern part of the north island. I have a two night stay in this area which is supposed to be beautiful so really looking forward to it.

The ferry ride flies by as there’s plenty to see and the captain gives a running commentary. As we leave the harbour which is sheltered by the Hauraki gulf, he points out Bean Rock lighthouse which is the last “cottage” lighthouse in NZ and one of the remaining few in the world.

It’s a bit gray today but a comfortable temperature and the sun is starting to peak through the clouds. There are a lot of islands in this neck of the woods….

One in particular, called Rangitoto, is particularly picturesque as it has a perfect volcano shape (so the locals believe).

At one point on the crossing we’re treated to some dolphins swimming alongside the boat:

As we approach the Coromandel, we see a large number of boats in the bay catching mussels. I’ll be trying some of those later. On arrival, I’m met by the tour company and shuttled to Coromandel town. A quick lunch and then we’re off to explore the town starting with a train journey on the Driving creek railway.

It’s a small train built by an eccentric local who was obsessed with building a railway and making pottery!

It makes it’s way up the mountainside through native forest and some unique art. There are a number of tunnels which are pretty tight – “everything inside” the driver continues to remind us.

A the top of the hill we get out and climb some steps to check out the view from the “Eyefull” tower!

Next we set off to visit the Kauri forest. We learn that the Kauri trees, which are native to NZ, and at one time covered the island, were cut and logged by the settling Europeans. Now there are very few of them.

This is one of the only grove of kauri remaining

On the way back to town we stop at Waiau Waterfall

The guidebook tells me that a must-eat while in the Cormandel is bivalves. I don’t know what a bivalve is so I have to look it up and find out it’s mussels, scallops and oysters. Fair enough – they’re on every menu from the fancier restaurants to the takeaways. I eat at the Pepper Tree and order half a dozen mussels and they’re gorgeous, definitely the biggest mussels I’ve ever had. (Very different to our smaller sweeter Dublin bay mussels).

Fish is definitely the way to go in this town so I also have the seafood chowder which is delicious. A glass of wine from Gisborne (not too far away) and I’m knackered and ready for bed.

Next morning I meet up with the tour group and we head to the other side of the peninsula to visit Cathedral Cove. The bus journey takes about an hour and a half via windy roads, across some beautiful countryside. We are dropped off at the car park and there’s a 2.5km coastal walk to get to the beach. The views along the way are spectacular.

Cathedral cove is famous for this rock arch:

We walk through the arch in between big waves so as not to get soaked and there’s nobody on the beach. There’s no way I’m getting into that water beyond ankle level as the waves are huge but a Canadian couple from our group brave it – impressive! The large swell makes it really exciting watching the waves:

The other side of the arch also has a beautiful beach:

So beautiful I reckon it’s a fine location to do a few planks!! [physio prescribed for a hip/glute situation I might add!!!]

Next on today’s agenda is a visit to Hot water beach. There is a peculiar phenomenon on this beach where if you dig into the sand (at certain spots) you come across hot water. In some spots it’s nearly boiling. It’s a huge tourist attraction and huddled on one small section of the beach are a hundred people digging and lounging in this hot water:

A few minutes walk and there’s no one around on this beautiful stretch of beach. The beach was officially closed as the swell was so big and lifeguards were calling to the few people who ventured in and asking them to get out or at least come to the edge. We did paddle our feet and while chatting and laughing about the “sneaker” wave that got me last year in Australia, low and behold a huge wave hit and soaked us.

We’re back in town by 3pm so it’s early enough to do a hike. There’s a 2.5 hour loop called Harrays which I do with a girl from Hawaii who I met on this mornings trip. There’s a lookout point which a lovely view:

Having tried the mussels last night I go for the special fish of the day at the Fish and Chip shop. It’s two flounders – don’t think I’ve ever had this fish before. There’s a lot of it…. but you know me, I manage it!!

Thank God my hotel is not in the alcohol ban area… as whilst writing this I’m sitting outside my very fancy motel room, watching the sun go down, with a glass of wine. Not bad for a Wednesday!

Next morning I take a leisurely walk along the coast road to McGregor bay:

I grab a “Coro pie” and head to the meeting point for the last excursion of my trip.

The final beach I’m visiting on this trip is New Chums beach. It’s about a half hour drive away and then there’s a half hour (assuming you’re steady on your feet!) walk to get to the beach. It’s an undeveloped, remote beach and the path can only be walked at low tide. Before setting off on the walk the guide Jo took a mugshot of me just in case!! I set off from this beach….

The path to the beach:

And get to this beach

New Chums had made it onto all sorts of best beach in the world lists so I’m expecting it to be busy but it’s not and it’s worth the trek to get here.

My Coromandel visit is over and I get the shuttle to take me to the return ferry to Auckland. Two minutes out of town and the bus is going suspiciously slow and then comes to a sudden stop. Oh dear we’ve broken down. The driver assures us the ferry will wait and sure enough another bus arrives and gets us to the ferry which has delayed its departure for us. The view of Auckland as we approach the city:

Tonight I eat at “Food Truck Garage”. I honestly thought I was going to a spot with multiple food trucks but I clearly didn’t do my homework and it’s just a restaurant called Food Truck Garage!! It is open air though and has a nice menu so I happily sit down with a glass of rosé and relax after a 25,000 step count day.

Next day is my opportunity to explore Auckland. I’m up early and checked out as I’m meeting a friend who I used to work with and haven’t seen in 15 years! I wish I’d looked out the hotel window before coming to reception in my shorts and sandals – it’s bucketing down rain! Not to worry they give me a huge umbrella and I’m on my way. So good to see you Grant 😁

Now to walk around the city and avoid the rain. I walk around the Viaduct harbour

And then check out some NZ art at the Art gallery:

I came across an interesting artist I’d never heard of – Louise Henderson. French born but lived in NZ most of her adult life. I really liked this triptych:

The highlight for me are the Maori leaders portraits from the late 1890’s and early 1900’s. They’re amazing… almost like photographs.

More rambling, (the sun is out now) including a visit to Albert Park and I’m happy to call it a day on Auckland. I’m moving on to Napier tomorrow and will continue my adventure through the north island.