New Zealand Part VI : South Island – Queenstown, The Routeburn Track and Milford Sound

I arrive in Queenstown just in time to attend the briefing for our hike starting the next day. I have a couple of hours to walk around the town and get my bearings. I can see why everyone raves about this town – the backdrop of water and mountains is amazing.

ROUTEBURN TRACK DAY 1: It’s a 6am start to get to the start of the Routeburn track. This track is considered by some to be the best in the area and it’s one of the “great walks” in New Zealand. We are a group of thirty-four mostly my age and above with four young guides. The bus drive takes us to the Divide, through Te Anu and passing Whakatipu lake, which is a huge lake and I figure must be the one referenced in the tv program (I’m now obsessed with) Top of the Lake.

We have a beautiful first day for our hike which starts with a steady climb through a forest of silver beech trees. I’m carrying my pack with two nights worth of gear which I’m not used to, but I manage it handy enough and get used to it pretty quick. We climb to Key Summit and get a nice view of Lake Marion.

One of the coolest things about being out here is that you can drink the water from the falls/stream. It is the coldest and yes I’m gonna say most delicious water I’ve ever had…the guide was great filling my water bottle at any opportunity: by the way this guide was only 19 and this was his first season, his name was Tarn but he was the image of Luke from Modern Family.. even he thought he looked like him!

Continuing on we stop at a hut in Lake Howden for lunch. You are not allowed to leave anything in huts or along the trails, not even an apple core or a bit of your leftover sandwhich!! Everything has to be packed back in your bag and carried out of the National Park.

After lunch the track gradually climbs to Earland Falls:

The last part of today’s journey takes us around the mountainside and after climbing for a while we tackle a steep descent to Lake Mackenzie:

This is where we stay for the night. The lodge is fabulous. It’s a lot more plush than I was expecting. There’s facilities to wash clothes and a drying room which is essentially a big sauna for your clothes! The food at the lodge is amazing and the guides also act as our servers and they run the bar. Such an added bonus to get good wine when we are miles from a road… apparently they get supplies once a week via helicopter and the staff stay for two weeks at a time coming in and out on the helicopter with the supplies… what a way to work!

I’m sharing with two other ladies, one from Japan and one from Singapore and luckily I have a single bed and don’t have to get in a top bunk – me and top bunks… not a good combination!!!! I warn MC (my Singapore roomie) of the potential possibility of me screaming in my sleep and she tells me the next morning I was quiet as a mouse… that may be because I got no sleep due to some light but regular snoring from elsewhere in the room!!!! Next night I apparently get my revenge when she tells me I sat up and let a few roars out of me in the middle of the night! I must have got a better sleep!

We have a lovely evening getting to know everyone in the group. The glasses of wine and beer make it super easy and everyone I meet is really nice. In particular three couples from Brisbane, who stick out as the drinking crew and are great fun, (definitely going to be hanging around with them), a guy from Holland, a group of four ladies from Brisbane and a couple from Liverpool & Scotland. It’s lights out at 10pm which is just as well and we can’t do too much damage.

ROUTEBURN TRACK DAY 2: It has been raining all night and continues to rain as we set off on our second day. We start off from the Mackenzie lake lodge and hike about an hour uphill through some trees which keeps us somewhat sheltered. We have varying degrees of wet weather gear, I’ve got a decent raincoat but my bottoms aren’t weatherproof and I’m praying my feet stay dry in my boots. At a certain point we stop to layer up (apparently it’s going to get windy and cold) and have a hot drink to get us ready for what’s ahead.

The guides explain that around the next corner is going to be very windy and exposed and we need to stay together. She suggests “small” people go in the middle and we might want to hold onto each other….. holy crap that doesn’t sound good… I get a hold of the Dutch fella and ask him if he’ll go in front of me and hope he’ll mind me if needs be. Cut to two minutes later and no joking, we are on the edge of a mountain with a gale force wind, hunkering for protection against a rock and I’m holding onto the Dutch guy for dear life. It was insane! When the wind eases for a minute we move along but it’s very scary as it’s a narrow path and very exposed. Luckily I’m hand in hand with this lovely guy who is taking it all in his stride and smiling away while I’m squeezing the life out of his hand trying not to be blown off the mountain. The next hour goes by very fast as I’m concentrating on putting one foot in front of the other safely and not falling over. Each time the wind whips up or there’s a really steep bit the hand comes back and he pulls me along… thank God for the kindness of the Dutch.😀

Finally we arrive at the Harris Saddle hut for our lunch stop and everyone is soaking wet. So much for waterproof gear…. you just can’t hide from these elements. I change my top layer to make sure I don’t get cold but my bottom layer is completely drenched and my boots are squelching. I take a little comfort knowing that everyone is in the same boat. We don’t hang about too long so we don’t get cold and everyone just wants to get the next few miles done and get to the lodge. It continues to rain and we are essentially walking through streams and waterfalls. Not only are the falls gushing with water and yes, beautiful to see, but there are waterfalls where usually there are no waterfalls…. that’s how much rain there’s been.

The itinerary suggested beautiful views over the Darran mountains, Hollyford valley and an optional climb to Conical hill but none of that happens!!! I’m just delighted everyone makes it to the lodge in one piece – we did have one man fall and bust his lip but nothing serious. We all head straight for the showers and the drying room…. this may be the best shower I’ve ever had. We have another fabulous lodge with great food and drink and I stay up with the Brisbane crew til the bar won’t serve us anymore and lights are about to go out!!!

ROUTEBURN TRACK DAY 3: No one believed our guides when they told us the forecast would be sunny, but low and behold when we wake up on our final day the rain has gone and the sun is out. In fact, the waterfalls that were gushing with water just the previous night are no longer even there…. crazy!!! We get our gear on and head off to the Routeburn Flats:

We have an early lunch by the river and do a nature walk before passing over a rope bridge to meet the end of the track.

From there we are back on the bus for a short journey back to Queenstown. It’s been an amazing three days and tough as the second day was, it was a super experience that I’ll never forget.

Back in Queenstown when I get to the hotel, the receptionist suggests I use the private spa which has a sauna and jacuzzi… what a great idea…. I lounge in that for a while, it’s private so no swimsuit needed… her suggestion not mine, and after a little rest I head downtown to meet up with the Brisbane/Dutch crew for a celebratory meal and some well earned drinks!! We have dinner at a really cool restaurant called the Botswana Butchery and drink a lot of wine. Then we hit a karaoke bar and there is a lot of singing and a lot more drinking…. an absolutely fantastic night with this crazy bunch but I’m going to be in a heap tomorrow…. I think I get home around 12:30am but it’s hard to say…

So in NZ bar staff are very strict about enforcing the law that says you cannot serve alcohol to someone who’s already had a few too many. Well clearly I am able to hold it together very well because even post karaoke bar I got into another bar and ordered more drinks! I have a vague memory of this so I admit I was twisted but they obviously thought I was ok. And to add insult to injury when I ordered two drinks for me and one of the others I was told “you can have one but your friend can’t”….. the cheek of me I took a corona for myself (like I needed another one) and a glass of water… hilarious!!! [side note for my mother – now Ma I know you’re reading this and are horrified thinking I’m getting drunk and disorderly in a foreign country by myself, but sure I was grand and let’s face it, you do it a bit yourself!!!!!!]

Next morning I have a 7am pickup to go to Milford Sound. I’m definitely still drunk but I drag myself out of the bed, throw on the first thing that comes to hand, put a smile on my face and get on the bus. The first couple of hours of the bus journey is the same as the journey to the Routeburn so I don’t feel bad that I’m missing the scenery and my eyes are closed the whole way. When we reach Te Anu I get a pie for breakfast and that seems to sort me out, from here on I’m reasonably ok and able to enjoy the trip. We stop along the way to enjoy the scenery, not quite as spectacular without with blue sky:

When we arrive at Milford Sound we get on a boat to cruise around and admire the views. The weather is not ideal and it’s overcast and grey. Although still beautiful I can only imagine how much better it would look with a blue sky.

I get chatting to a lovely lady from Lithuania who is just starting her NZ adventure and we have loads in common and chat for ages. After a couple of hours on the boat it’s time to go back to Queenstown which for the tour group is four hours on the bus, not for me though, I’m taking a scenic fight home and will be back within the hour after a fabulous flight sitting beside the pilot in a 4-seater plane.

The views are amazing flying over Fiordland National Park, in particular as we fly over Sutherland Falls, one of the highest in NZ:

The color of the water and the varying landscape en route back was amazing:

Back on terra firma it’s time for food. Fergburger is a really famous spot in Queenstown for yes you’ve guessed it, a burger! It’s a small fast food type set up and the queues are always out the door and regularly down the street.. it can take on average an hour to actually get your burger. I’m not a big fan for queueing for something when there ar other options all around but in this case I thought I’d give it a go. I stood in line for about half an hour (not too bad) and had a great chat with one of the girls working on keeping the line in check.. making sure customers weren’t blocking other shop doorways etc. When I got to the top of the queue and put my order in the girl said “oh you don’t have to pay” I was totally stunned and asked her why and she said, literal quote “because you’re lovely”…. I couldn’t believe it, how nice and it was a $24 burger with fries and onion rings!!!! I was delighted with myself! The staff are all really lovely and the burger was well worth the wait – it was delicious and even more so I’m sure cos it was free!!! Thanks Fergburger will definitely come again!

I finish the evening watching a beautiful sunset and have a beer with my new pal from Lithuania.

It’s my last morning in New Zealand and what better way to spend it than running a few miles around the lake. It really is stunning and I keep stopping to take photos. It’s so picturesque everywhere you look:

I’ve really loved my time in NZ even with all the weather hiccups. I definitely want to come again with more time and flexibility in the itinerary. For now goodbye NZ….. Australia here I come!