odohertyelaine

I really am very lucky to have such good friends all over this country and I get to spend a couple of days “out in the country” with my pal and old boss Maree. She lives on a farm in Chatsbury which is a few hours from Sydney. I take a train to Bowral which is a cute town to walk around and see and have some tea. I had an orange poppy seed cake and Maree went for biscotti…. guess who was a little disappointed!

Before leaving town we pick up some award winning hot cross buns for next mornings breakfast. I can confirm that they were really delicious and apparently the cross was made from real custard.

It’s a further hour and a half or so to Chatsbury so we are really out in the sticks or the bush I suppose!! It’s great to be able to get out this far and see Maree and her husband Tom and it’s a nice change from the city for a couple of days.

We take a walk around the farm and see kangaroos looking at us from the hill top:

Tom cooks us a delicious meal and we catch up on all that’s been going on since we last saw each other which must be over a year ago. Next morning I get to meet the animals and check out the rest of the land… well not all of it but we get a good walk around.

Today we are spending the day in Canberra which is the capital of Australia. On our way we stop off to visit the big merino… it’s a thing – love it!

Onwards to the city and we start by visiting the new parliament buildings. Both houses are sitting today so we get to see a session – it’s really interesting. I must do a trip to our Dail when I get home although not sure you’re allowed visit when they’re in session [note to self : must check]. Anyways we spend much longer than we thought we would as we got sucked into the topic for discussion which was a bill to reduce corporation tax… interesting for two accountants!!

Next it’s time for lunch and we have really tasty ramen at Ramentik. With that sustenance we head for the national library. It has an exhibition of treasures which is really interesting but the library itself, i.e. the shelves of books is modern and not all that impressive.. which is to be expected I suppose. Mind you the library of New South Wales was gorgeous and they have a room dedicated to Shakespeare, anyway, I digress… The library building is close to the national gallery so that’s our next stop.

Most of the artwork is modern and there’s some interesting video installations that I get sucked into. Hours pass so quickly in these places… My favorite piece was called Mao, Buddha and Me. Each face is made up of small pictures of the previous person.

Next the Portrait Gallery which I love even though I don’t know a lot of people… Nick Cave, Olivia Newton John, Captain Cook, that’s about it…. where was Pat Cash and Russell Crowe???

A quick visit to the war memorial on our way out of town and then it’s back on the road for the hour plus journey back to the farm.

We go out to the local pub for curry night and have a great meal and some wine to round out the visit.

Next morning I take the Southern Highlands train back to the city. It takes three hours through countryside before hitting Sydney and then I’m back on my light rail “home” to Hils & Pete. Today I’ll be collecting the kids from school and taking them for some treats.

Soooooo excited… my friend Megan is flying in from California to do this Tasmania trip – it’s a win win, time in a new place (and we have a great itinerary planned) and Megan time… bring it on! Alas I’m arriving with a hangover but that’s a whole other story! I decide to see it as a way to sympathize/match Megan’s jet lag so that’s all good then!!

The flight time from Sydney to Hobart, Tasmania is only one and a half hours. We pick up a rental car and after checking into our hotel, head straight to MONA – the Museum of Old and New. This is the weirdest museum I’ve ever been to. I’d read some reviews and met a few people who’d been and there was no consensus… opinions ranged from “brilliant, don’t miss it” to “I was offended”. Once I heard that last comment I definitely wanted to check it out!!!!

There was one really cool installation that Megan and I both loved. It was called “Bitmap” and it is a wall of water going through some sort of machine and creating words.. I’d never seen anything like it – very original:

There was a “museum of everything” which seemed to be a museum of art work by crazy people…. decide for yourself.. creepy dolls, a cats tea party and that wasn’t the worst of it.

Anything with video was really weird but I did enjoy a room with people singing karaoke where you can’t hear the background music just their voices… very amusing.

And of course there was the infamous “wall of vaginas” well that’s what we called it, the title of the work was a bit more crude so not going to repeat that here… there were 77 of these around the walls…. (sorry mammy!!)

For our Friday night dinner we hit Franklin, a fancy spot with a limited menu that when hungover or jet lagged is not gonna cut it, so we have a glass of wine with a couple of small appetizers and head to the nearby park where we noticed food trucks. Way better comfort food options here….. I try an Indonesian martabak which is basically veggies and chicken in a light pastry shallow fried.. it’s delicious. Another glass of wine and we are happy out!

Saturday morning is park run time. We drive out to Risdon Brook park and the run takes place around the reservoir. It’s pretty but “undulating”, not words I wanna hear when I’m running! After parkrun it’s time to leave Hobart and set off on our tour of the island of Tasmania, which by the way has a population of just half a million (ish). Our first stop is at the top of Mt Wellington:

The views of Hobart are impressive…

Onwards we go to the central plateau and Great Lake. It’s pretty scenery on the way although not much to do around the lake when we arrive. We check in to the Great Lake hotel which is really a motel and along with our key are given 4 slices of white bread for our breakfast.. that’s a first.

We hit the bar, hoping for a bit of local banter, but not much is happening other than a few bar flies playing keno (looks like a mixture of bingo and the lottery) and a stag party with a youngfella dressed up in a corset, gold bolero jacket and small hat on his head… quite bizarre! There’s a for sale sign over the bar (which apparently is for real and the place is going for $1m). There are “roo” patties on the menu so I jump at the chance of trying that! They’re not too bad but we call it a night after a couple of beers and the mediocre pub grub.

Next day we head for Cradle Mountain. There is so much roadkill on the road and we find out later that most of them are pademelons, a small wallaby type animal. They are in the middle of the road, on the side of the road, there’s big ones, small ones… they’re literally every few hundred metres… very sad really. I manage to get through the whole week without running one over although I did drive over a dead one at one point (ugh… I can see Megan’s grimace) and I did knock down a seagull… since when do seagulls not move when you drive toward them on the road… I felt terrible, for about five minutes then remembered the news stories this past year about them being vicious in Dublin so got over it fairly quickly!

It’s a lovely sunny day and we drive through some very quiet rural roads. We pass through a cute town called Doloraine and have lunch at a raspberry farm which is delicious. We do an 8km hike to Liffey Falls:

Before we hit cradle mountain we drive through Mole Creek and stop at the Trowunna sanctuary to see some Tasmanian devils. They are crazy looking animals:

They eat the roadkill we saw en route here and we watched as a group of them tear apart the remainder of an animal killed earlier that day… a little gruesome but fascinating to watch:

We also got to feed some kangaroos which was great fun especially when they hoped over to you… they come flying at you as if they’re going to run you over but then they stop dead straight about a foot in front of you. I loved it.

We also met a couple of wombats:

We are staying at Peppers Cradle Mountain resort which is quite a bit fancier than last nights accommodation!! It’s 100m from the entrance into the national park. We take a walk around the area and follow an “enchanted path”… truly not all that enchanting but we did see a very cute little animal on the way out and a nice waterfall on the way back.

Next day is our big hike day but we wake up to rain… a lot of it… we decide to put our raincoats on and just get on with it. After discussions at the visitor Centre we realize it’s pointless to do what we’d wanted to do as that involves hiking high up but there won’t be any visibility because of the clouds so instead we decide to do the Dove Lake circuit with a little extra path to get there. Even in the rain you can see how lovely it is but it’s a pity it’s such bad weather… (seems to be following me around)

Ah well we manage 7 miles which we’re happy enough with and it’ll have to be books and relaxation for the rest of the day.. not a bad way to spend a Monday afternoon. We end up getting stuck into a local Pinot noir (Clemens Hill – best we had) and playing Trivial Pursuit.

Next morning it’s time to leave Cradle Mountain but not before sneaking in another short hike before breakfast.. we do the King Billy trail, King Billy is apparently a tree and we see more pademelons on our way.

From Cradle Mountain we head for Launceston and stop at Mole Creek on the way. We visit Morikooba cave which has amazing stalagmites and stalactites and my favorite little critters – the glow worms. We climb a lot of steps upwards inside the cave which seems counter intuitive to being underground but we are obviously under quite a big mountain. The area we climb up into is known as the cathedral and it has amazing acoustics. Our guide Dawn is amazing and she belts out a bit of Nina Simone which sounds amazing. On the way back down she turns out the few basic lights that are turned on along the way and we experience full darkness which must be what it’s like to be blind… we can’t even see our hand right in front of our faces.

In Launceston we take a walk around the downtown area which is very quiet and seems almost deserted. We find a really good seafood restaurant and both have poke with some delicious wine.

Next day is our longest day of driving as we drive the scenic route from Launceston to the Bay of Fires before finally getting to Bicheno. We have a busy day planned which includes visiting a cheese factory and Columba falls where St Columba visited (all the way from Ireland possibly via Scotland) many many years back… isn’t it amazing that he would have made it to Tasmania – crazy!

Onwards to the bay of fires for a hike along the coast.. again the weather is a bit cloudy so the views are not as spectacular as they probably often are… still it’s nice to get some fresh air and hear the ocean. The rocks are an interesting orange color:

We arrive at Biceno to our beach front retreat (which sounds really fancy but not so much!)…. it is a great big two bedroom unit with the best view of the bay. This is the view from my bed:

Today is our day to hike in Freycinet National park…the weather is decent and this is definitely going to be the highlight. We start by heading up to the Wineglass bay lookout which is the highlight of the National Park. It’s well worth the steep climb and the view is amazing:

We continue downward to the beach itself which has beautiful white sand:

Onwards along the coastline of the park we do the Hazards bay circuit, which the sign says takes 5.5 hours and is an all day hike which you need to pack food for… ehhhh well we had some cheesy toast before we left and we’ve got nothing with us (Suzanne MacLean you’d be horrified at our lack of planning!) but all in all we complete the hike in three hours and we even throw in a couple more of the 60 short walks before devouring lunch.

We have a nice lunch at Geographie cafe in downtown Coal Valley and decide a lazy afternoon is on the cards after all that so we adjourn for some downtime. By 8pm the sun is gone and we have a date with some little blue penguins. These tiny penguins (also called fairy penguins) live in the water and at night they waddle onto land to their burrows. It’s moulting season right now so we don’t see a huge amount but we do see nine in total. You’re not allowed take photos so this one was taken by the tour operator:

Our week is nearly over and it’s time to drive back to Hobart. Again we drive through some lovely countryside and see a lot of roadkill. We stop at Spikey beach and Spikey bridge:

Along the way we read some of the history of the island. Well I’m driving, Megan is reading! Apparently the last of the aboriginal people died out here. The history of the convicts is also very interesting. We are now driving through some wine country so we stop to check out a couple of them… we are on the hunt for a great Pinot noir. Poole wines is delicious, will be bringing back one of those for Hallas HQ!

On our last night in Tasmania we have our best meal at Syra, a Mediterranean/Lebanese place on Salamanca street. The owner chats to us about the restaurant and the food. They have amazing dishes including their signature fried cauliflower and they happen to have our Clemens Hill Pinot which we treat ourselves to. We couldn’t have picked a better place for our final meal.

Another Saturday morning and another parkrun to be done. This time we hit a newish one in Hobart at Queens Domain.

Then it’s off to the airport… goodbye to Megan, sniff sniff, and back into the arms of my Irish red head… on St Patrick’s day…. Hils I’m on my way….

In total, I’m in Sydney for the month of March bar a week in Tasmania. I’m thrilled to be met by my fabulous friend Hilary and after a really busy week in the South Island of NZ I’m looking forward to a bit of downtime and “normal” life.

The flight from Queenstown to Sydney takes me over the Tasman sea and the views coming into Sydney are quite spectacular as we fly over a massive coastline of beautiful beaches. Hilary is at the airport waiting for me and we have loads to catch up on so we get started with that pronto, collect the kids, Daddy home, grub, glass of wine… happy days! I feel right at home!

First family dinner out in Leichhardt with my Hallas family:

Although the main focus of my Sydney visit is to spend time with friends, I do have a list of things I’d like to see and do. We tick one of those off the list straight away as Hilary and I set off to Bondi beach and walk the coast to Coogee beach. We start with a photo and a man offers to take it for us. It just so happens to be Brendan ‘off the tele’ (Coach Trip on Channel 4!). He’s hilarious and keeps us yapping for ages telling us about his Irish mammy.

It’s sunny and the water looks amazing, if not a bit wild for me and we tick off all the beaches along the way – Bondi, Tamarama, Bronte, Clovelly and Coogee.

There’s a number of sea water swimming pools that look amazing. Imagine those waves coming over you doing your laps:

There’s a graveyard between two of the beaches – it’s the one in season two of Top of The Lake (guess what I’m starting to watch!)

A quick dip in Coogee before heading home:

On Saturday morning it’s park run time and there’s a newly opened one in the local park in Leichhardt. We rally a group of the girls together and it’s a beautiful morning to do our 5km along the canal:

Energized and ready for more activity I head off on the “greenway” for a bike ride with one of the lads from my Sri Lanka trip. I expected a straightforward cycle along the train tracks or water but this “greenway” involved getting onto main roads for a bit then getting back on, then getting into elevators to cross platforms and getting back on… it was a bit of a nightmare and I really had no idea where I was going. Plus trying to look at a map on your phone while cycling is not easy!! Eventually a local came to my rescue and took me to where I needed to get to….. there are so many nice people out there. Not sure how many kilometers we covered but the rest of the cycle was on nice paths in glorious sunshine. We ended up at a really cool brewery for lunch and had one or two drinks before cycling back. A brilliant afternoon!

After a few days of relaxing at Hilary’s I made it into the city two days in a row. Well let me clarify relaxing…. we did a gym class or went for a run every day, I just didn’t do any real touristy stuff that I need to tell you about…. just lots of family fun stuff with the kids and plenty of good food and wine and tv!! Lots of this:

And this:

It was lovely to get to see Sydney again and I recalled Darling harbor and some of the streets around Pyrmont. I walked to Hyde park and saw the ANZAC memorial:

Then I visited St Mary’s cathedral which was lovely:

I visited the Opera house and booked the tour and tickets for La Traviata:

Saw the Harbour bridge which I’d climbed last time I was here…

Walking up Macquarie street I saw some lorikeets in the trees. They are really colorful:

There are a number of things including the zoo, botanic gardens and art gallery still on my list, so post Tasmania it’s going to be busy!!!

• It’s just like home with regards to toilets and drinking water – happy days!
• My friend Karina has lived here for fifteen years and I can’t believe it’s taken me this long to visit.
• Most hotels checkout time is 10am.. early!
• So much great food…
• So much great wine… in particular Pinot Gris on the north island which I hadn’t drank much of before this trip and who knew so much Pinot noir.. I feel like I’m with my people!
• I’m surprised to hear a fair amount of American country music over here!
• The landscape driving through country roads on the north island is not unlike Ireland.. very green and very wet a lot of the time.
• George Bernard Shaw visited NZ in 1934.
• You can’t get away from the smell of sulphur in Rotorua … there’s no getting away from it until you get out of the town and then suddenly you realize you can’t smell it anymore… ah, delightful fresh air.
• There are a lot of flies and most of the hotels provide fly killer spray.
• They say “eh” in the tone of a question after more or less everything they say.
• Flying within NZ using the regional airports is really easy and fast.
• The safety video they show on New Zealand Airlines is brilliant. Its not set on an airplane with a bored looking person fastening their seat belt, it’s outdoors with a guy thumbing a lift… It’s a clever way to get people to watch something they usually ignore.
• Those Finn brothers knew what they were talking about when they wrote “Four Seasons in One Day”….the weather can change very quickly and quite drastically here.
• Eating out is as expensive as home….great food though
• A word on the Maori. The Maori people are the native people of New Zealand and they have a very specific culture that they continue to maintain and cherish. The population is approx 15% Maori. To my eye, they are a very pretty race with beautiful skin color although I can’t say I admire the tattoos. They appear to be genetically disposed to being, let’s say, more voluptuous. Anyone I met was super friendly but I didn’t do a lot of the Maori culture stuff.. visit a marae, go to a show, see a haka… it didn’t really appeal to me – I think it’s because the haka is so aggressive, it kinda freaks me out, but for those interested in that side of NZ there is lots to keep you busy.

I arrive in Queenstown just in time to attend the briefing for our hike starting the next day. I have a couple of hours to walk around the town and get my bearings. I can see why everyone raves about this town – the backdrop of water and mountains is amazing.

ROUTEBURN TRACK DAY 1: It’s a 6am start to get to the start of the Routeburn track. This track is considered by some to be the best in the area and it’s one of the “great walks” in New Zealand. We are a group of thirty-four mostly my age and above with four young guides. The bus drive takes us to the Divide, through Te Anu and passing Whakatipu lake, which is a huge lake and I figure must be the one referenced in the tv program (I’m now obsessed with) Top of the Lake.

We have a beautiful first day for our hike which starts with a steady climb through a forest of silver beech trees. I’m carrying my pack with two nights worth of gear which I’m not used to, but I manage it handy enough and get used to it pretty quick. We climb to Key Summit and get a nice view of Lake Marion.

One of the coolest things about being out here is that you can drink the water from the falls/stream. It is the coldest and yes I’m gonna say most delicious water I’ve ever had…the guide was great filling my water bottle at any opportunity: by the way this guide was only 19 and this was his first season, his name was Tarn but he was the image of Luke from Modern Family.. even he thought he looked like him!

Continuing on we stop at a hut in Lake Howden for lunch. You are not allowed to leave anything in huts or along the trails, not even an apple core or a bit of your leftover sandwhich!! Everything has to be packed back in your bag and carried out of the National Park.

After lunch the track gradually climbs to Earland Falls:

The last part of today’s journey takes us around the mountainside and after climbing for a while we tackle a steep descent to Lake Mackenzie:

This is where we stay for the night. The lodge is fabulous. It’s a lot more plush than I was expecting. There’s facilities to wash clothes and a drying room which is essentially a big sauna for your clothes! The food at the lodge is amazing and the guides also act as our servers and they run the bar. Such an added bonus to get good wine when we are miles from a road… apparently they get supplies once a week via helicopter and the staff stay for two weeks at a time coming in and out on the helicopter with the supplies… what a way to work!

I’m sharing with two other ladies, one from Japan and one from Singapore and luckily I have a single bed and don’t have to get in a top bunk – me and top bunks… not a good combination!!!! I warn MC (my Singapore roomie) of the potential possibility of me screaming in my sleep and she tells me the next morning I was quiet as a mouse… that may be because I got no sleep due to some light but regular snoring from elsewhere in the room!!!! Next night I apparently get my revenge when she tells me I sat up and let a few roars out of me in the middle of the night! I must have got a better sleep!

We have a lovely evening getting to know everyone in the group. The glasses of wine and beer make it super easy and everyone I meet is really nice. In particular three couples from Brisbane, who stick out as the drinking crew and are great fun, (definitely going to be hanging around with them), a guy from Holland, a group of four ladies from Brisbane and a couple from Liverpool & Scotland. It’s lights out at 10pm which is just as well and we can’t do too much damage.

ROUTEBURN TRACK DAY 2: It has been raining all night and continues to rain as we set off on our second day. We start off from the Mackenzie lake lodge and hike about an hour uphill through some trees which keeps us somewhat sheltered. We have varying degrees of wet weather gear, I’ve got a decent raincoat but my bottoms aren’t weatherproof and I’m praying my feet stay dry in my boots. At a certain point we stop to layer up (apparently it’s going to get windy and cold) and have a hot drink to get us ready for what’s ahead.

The guides explain that around the next corner is going to be very windy and exposed and we need to stay together. She suggests “small” people go in the middle and we might want to hold onto each other….. holy crap that doesn’t sound good… I get a hold of the Dutch fella and ask him if he’ll go in front of me and hope he’ll mind me if needs be. Cut to two minutes later and no joking, we are on the edge of a mountain with a gale force wind, hunkering for protection against a rock and I’m holding onto the Dutch guy for dear life. It was insane! When the wind eases for a minute we move along but it’s very scary as it’s a narrow path and very exposed. Luckily I’m hand in hand with this lovely guy who is taking it all in his stride and smiling away while I’m squeezing the life out of his hand trying not to be blown off the mountain. The next hour goes by very fast as I’m concentrating on putting one foot in front of the other safely and not falling over. Each time the wind whips up or there’s a really steep bit the hand comes back and he pulls me along… thank God for the kindness of the Dutch.😀

Finally we arrive at the Harris Saddle hut for our lunch stop and everyone is soaking wet. So much for waterproof gear…. you just can’t hide from these elements. I change my top layer to make sure I don’t get cold but my bottom layer is completely drenched and my boots are squelching. I take a little comfort knowing that everyone is in the same boat. We don’t hang about too long so we don’t get cold and everyone just wants to get the next few miles done and get to the lodge. It continues to rain and we are essentially walking through streams and waterfalls. Not only are the falls gushing with water and yes, beautiful to see, but there are waterfalls where usually there are no waterfalls…. that’s how much rain there’s been.

The itinerary suggested beautiful views over the Darran mountains, Hollyford valley and an optional climb to Conical hill but none of that happens!!! I’m just delighted everyone makes it to the lodge in one piece – we did have one man fall and bust his lip but nothing serious. We all head straight for the showers and the drying room…. this may be the best shower I’ve ever had. We have another fabulous lodge with great food and drink and I stay up with the Brisbane crew til the bar won’t serve us anymore and lights are about to go out!!!

ROUTEBURN TRACK DAY 3: No one believed our guides when they told us the forecast would be sunny, but low and behold when we wake up on our final day the rain has gone and the sun is out. In fact, the waterfalls that were gushing with water just the previous night are no longer even there…. crazy!!! We get our gear on and head off to the Routeburn Flats:

We have an early lunch by the river and do a nature walk before passing over a rope bridge to meet the end of the track.

From there we are back on the bus for a short journey back to Queenstown. It’s been an amazing three days and tough as the second day was, it was a super experience that I’ll never forget.

Back in Queenstown when I get to the hotel, the receptionist suggests I use the private spa which has a sauna and jacuzzi… what a great idea…. I lounge in that for a while, it’s private so no swimsuit needed… her suggestion not mine, and after a little rest I head downtown to meet up with the Brisbane/Dutch crew for a celebratory meal and some well earned drinks!! We have dinner at a really cool restaurant called the Botswana Butchery and drink a lot of wine. Then we hit a karaoke bar and there is a lot of singing and a lot more drinking…. an absolutely fantastic night with this crazy bunch but I’m going to be in a heap tomorrow…. I think I get home around 12:30am but it’s hard to say…

So in NZ bar staff are very strict about enforcing the law that says you cannot serve alcohol to someone who’s already had a few too many. Well clearly I am able to hold it together very well because even post karaoke bar I got into another bar and ordered more drinks! I have a vague memory of this so I admit I was twisted but they obviously thought I was ok. And to add insult to injury when I ordered two drinks for me and one of the others I was told “you can have one but your friend can’t”….. the cheek of me I took a corona for myself (like I needed another one) and a glass of water… hilarious!!! [side note for my mother – now Ma I know you’re reading this and are horrified thinking I’m getting drunk and disorderly in a foreign country by myself, but sure I was grand and let’s face it, you do it a bit yourself!!!!!!]

Next morning I have a 7am pickup to go to Milford Sound. I’m definitely still drunk but I drag myself out of the bed, throw on the first thing that comes to hand, put a smile on my face and get on the bus. The first couple of hours of the bus journey is the same as the journey to the Routeburn so I don’t feel bad that I’m missing the scenery and my eyes are closed the whole way. When we reach Te Anu I get a pie for breakfast and that seems to sort me out, from here on I’m reasonably ok and able to enjoy the trip. We stop along the way to enjoy the scenery, not quite as spectacular without with blue sky:

When we arrive at Milford Sound we get on a boat to cruise around and admire the views. The weather is not ideal and it’s overcast and grey. Although still beautiful I can only imagine how much better it would look with a blue sky.

I get chatting to a lovely lady from Lithuania who is just starting her NZ adventure and we have loads in common and chat for ages. After a couple of hours on the boat it’s time to go back to Queenstown which for the tour group is four hours on the bus, not for me though, I’m taking a scenic fight home and will be back within the hour after a fabulous flight sitting beside the pilot in a 4-seater plane.

The views are amazing flying over Fiordland National Park, in particular as we fly over Sutherland Falls, one of the highest in NZ:

The color of the water and the varying landscape en route back was amazing:

Back on terra firma it’s time for food. Fergburger is a really famous spot in Queenstown for yes you’ve guessed it, a burger! It’s a small fast food type set up and the queues are always out the door and regularly down the street.. it can take on average an hour to actually get your burger. I’m not a big fan for queueing for something when there ar other options all around but in this case I thought I’d give it a go. I stood in line for about half an hour (not too bad) and had a great chat with one of the girls working on keeping the line in check.. making sure customers weren’t blocking other shop doorways etc. When I got to the top of the queue and put my order in the girl said “oh you don’t have to pay” I was totally stunned and asked her why and she said, literal quote “because you’re lovely”…. I couldn’t believe it, how nice and it was a $24 burger with fries and onion rings!!!! I was delighted with myself! The staff are all really lovely and the burger was well worth the wait – it was delicious and even more so I’m sure cos it was free!!! Thanks Fergburger will definitely come again!

I finish the evening watching a beautiful sunset and have a beer with my new pal from Lithuania.

It’s my last morning in New Zealand and what better way to spend it than running a few miles around the lake. It really is stunning and I keep stopping to take photos. It’s so picturesque everywhere you look:

I’ve really loved my time in NZ even with all the weather hiccups. I definitely want to come again with more time and flexibility in the itinerary. For now goodbye NZ….. Australia here I come!

Well here I am in Lauder, central Otago where they grow a lot of the grapes that make delicious Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. It’s a happy accident to be here and although I’m arriving late after a delayed flight and delays on the road due to rock slides I think this is going to be a nice couple of days. Even with the rainy weather on the way here, I can see that there is amazing scenery all around. Unfortunately I’ve missed the tranz alpine train journey and the glaciers but I’m going to make the most of what Lauder has to offer. First and foremost the Airbnb…. it’s a beautiful old house that used to be the doctors house and surgery, my room is the big room at the front and it’s gorgeous:

Having dropped my bags I’m ready for some dinner and a wee drink so I walk to the local hotel/pub which is only about 500 meters from the B&B. It’s very much a rural pub in the sticks and there’s a few locals propping up the bar who are very eager to find out who I am and what I’m doing here. First things first though a glass of wine…. no matter where you are on this island you get good wine – this one is from just around the corner:

I have a lovely dinner of local lamb and a couple of glasses of the red (they are large pours) and have a great chat with the locals who are very interested to know if I get propositioned often on my travels… ahem….. and one has a cousin who’ll be in the pub tomorrow night and apparently will be dying to meet me… sounds like I’m in for a treat! There’s a few offers to drop me home when they hear I walked to the pub but I laugh as it’s so close sure why wouldn’t I walk. When I finally say my goodbyes and go outside it’s pitch black and there are no lights on the road… now I get it! I get dropped to the door by a “local” who, would you believe it, is a Donegal man!!!!

I’ve started watching Top of The Lake, which is set around the Queenstown area, and next morning when I go for a 5km run I feel like Elizabeth Moss running in this stunning area. I pass this picturesque scenery:

Wanda, the Airbnb host serves up a lovely brekkie and loans me a bike and helmet so I can go for a cycle along the Central Otago Rail Trail. It’s a 150km trail on an old railway line that goes right past the house so I jump on and cycle to the next big town about 23km away called Oreturua. It’s so peaceful, the sun is shining and I feel like I have the whole trail to myself. I’m cycling toward the snow capped mountains. I take my time and soak up the views, stopping regularly for some photo ops.

The town of Oretura has the coolest general store:

Old school or what:

On the cycle route the scenery is stunning, I pass a number of bridges, gorges and go through two really dark tunnels

The bridges are really bumpy to go over and this one made quite a few scary creeks as I went over the boards.

When I finish the cycle and return to Lauder it’s still quite early so I decide to do part of it again so I can capture it on the go-pro. I see a couple of people I’ve already passed on the trail and they must think I’m lost but off I go to capture the footage. By the time I return for the second time I’ve clocked up 60km so I’m happy with that.

Back at the doctors house it’s time to feed the animals – they have alpacas – love their facial expressions:

After a shower it’s time to head to the pub again… well it is the only place around. I arrive to a chorus of hellos and feel like a local. I sit in the same spot at the bar and order a steak and beer. When the cousin arrives he makes a beeline for me and sure enough we’re chatting all night… he’s a lovely man, could be my Da but the craic is ninety and we even end up playing darts – Ireland vs New Zealand. I start well, hitting 20’s but quickly I lose my few fluke shots and I’m basically rubbish! None of us can make a finish and both teams end up needing double 1 – mortified!! Where’s Michael O’Doherty when I need him! Great craic though… It’s such a great little spot. It’s late enough getting out of there and I know I’m gonna pay for those beers tomorrow.

Next morning (after a couple of panadol!) I set off early for Queenstown and decide to stop off at all the scenic spots en route. It’s a sunny day and the countryside is amazing.. it’s hard to resist taking photos as I’m driving along. I stop at Clyde to see the dam:

and some various other points along the way including Dunstan Lake, Roaring Meg and Cromwell.

Christchurch wasn’t originally on my South Island itinerary but I’m happy I got to come here. It’s an interesting city that’s been through tough times. It was hit very badly with earthquakes in 2010 and 2011 and there’s lots of evidence still around but it also means there are lovely new buildings everywhere too. My hotel for e.g. is brand spanking new so although basic it’s got brand new carpets, bathroom, kitchen etc.. love that.

I arrive to the regional airport which is tiny and super easy to navigate. I grab my bag and see “Steve’s shuttle” beside the taxi rank so go with that option for half the price and it drops me right to the door. The lady on the bus beside me tells me it’s going to be “cold” tonight and tomorrow and she hopes I’ve brought warmer clothes, the weather says a low of 14 degrees.. I can’t wait!

I plan my afternoon adventure over lunch and set off for a look around. First on my list and just around the corner from the hotel is the transitional cathedral also known as the cardboard cathedral. As the names suggest, it’s a temporary structure made from containers and over 1,000 lbs of cardboard tubes.

The inside is very impressive and it’s a fully functional Anglican cathedral which holds concerts etc. the actual cathedral was badly damaged … see below when I found it the next day…

From there I walk down Cashel Street [by the way most of the street names and places are Irish or Scottish, my hotel is on Tuam St] which is the main shopping street toward the container mall. Unfortunately after walking around in circles, somewhat confused, I’m told that it closed two weeks ago and all the containers have been removed. Shame… although you can still see how they’ve used these shipping containers all over the city:

I’m now at the river and the Remembrance Arch

Not far from here are the botanical gardens which I don’t spend too much time in as I’m planning to do a run the next morning (big mistake). I’m planning to run the parkrun route as I won’t be here on Saturday.

Instead of staying outside in the hot sun (and it is hot) I go into the museum for a quick look around. There are a few interesting things that keep me in there much longer than I’d planned. First, the skeletons of the moa – the now extinct giant flightless bird (it’s really a dinosaur). Second, their Egyptian mummy… I do love a good mummy. Her name is Tash Pen Khonsu and she’s been on display since she arrived in 1888. Next is Fred and Myrtle’s Paua Shell House. Now those of you paying attention may recall the fabulous meal I had in Napier where I ate abalone aka paua.. well this cooky old couple decorated their whole house with the shells and were famous in NZ, appearing in tv ads and all sorts throughout the seventies and eighties. When they passed away the interior of their house was moved here so the display continues to get visitors as it did when they were living. It was fascinating and the shells are really beautiful:

The last room that I came across at the museum was exhibiting the top 50 National Geographic photos… it was a fabulous exhibit and I must have spend well over an hour in there.. missing all that sunshine outside! By the time I came out the sun was gone and clouds were arriving…

Rambling around the city it’s good to see the tram is still operating. I didn’t get to go on it, the city felt small enough to explore by foot.

The last place on my list for today is the art gallery called Te Puna. I didn’t have a lot of time but I flew around the ground floor and there was some very interesting NZ artists on display.. in particular Jacqueline Fahey and also Ann Sheltons photography, of which I really liked the set below:

The building itself is impressive with this little fella on top:

After a packed afternoon exploring the city I walk back toward the hotel and pass by a small movie theatre. I’m not really bothered about dinner tonight so on impulse I get a ticket for Lady Bird, great movie not sure it’s Oscar worthy but really enjoyable and Saoirse Ronan is brilliant in it.

Next morning I awake to torrential rain and a massive decline in temperature…. so much for my run in the botanical gardens. I’m raging I didn’t pay more attention to the woman on the bus and switch what I was going to do today to yesterday… it’s really hard to fathom how the weather can change so drastically so quickly … ah well what can I do. I definitely won’t be going on the gondola as planned 😩. Instead I head for the Quake city museum. It is fascinating and the rest of my time here is now all about the earthquakes. Imagine this crack in your garden:

The museum has a lot of interesting information about the many earthquakes the Canterbury area has had over the years – there have been so many, but mostly is covers the 2010 and 2011 disasters. Although the 2010 earthquake was higher on the Richter scale there were no fatalities but the 2011, only five months later resulted in 185 deaths. There was a movie of survivors telling their story – very moving and sad.

After spending the whole morning at quake city I head for some lunch and get onto WiFi to check if anything is going down! It seems it is…. the weather warning from earlier has turned into a full on state of emergency and I have an email to say my train journey planned for tomorrow is cancelled. This wasn’t any ole train journey this was the Tranz Alpine allegedly one of THE great train journeys you can take.. I end up spending most of the day figuring out what to do next and how to get there. When I call Hilary (in Australia) for some advice she has no hesitation in telling me that the first thing I need to do is get out of Christchurch aka earthquake city…. yeah after what I just saw this morning that’s a definite affirmative!! Before I figure all that out I continue, in the rain, to tick off the last few things on my list.

Next up Cathedral Square where the Anglican cathedral still stands.. well some of it. It’s very sad to see what was a beautiful building torn apart.

More tramping around getting soaked from below my raincoat but it’s nice to just plod around…

The last place on my list is the Earthquake memorial which is by the river. I walk along reading the names… so sad… no one is around only a few ducks…

Back to the hotel for a stressful couple of hours of re-planing but I finish off the evening with a fabulous dinner at a Malaysian restaurant just a couple of blocks away. A couple of glasses of wine and I’m happy out.

Wednesday morning it’s windy and still raining out there but it looks a little brighter so hopefully there’ll be no issue with my flight. Before I head to the airport I have one last place to visit. The catholic cathedral, known as the basilica, was also very badly hit by the earthquake and realizing it’s not too far from the hotel I put the raincoat on and head for a look:

At the airport I’m delighted to see that although I’ve got a 45 minute delay all flights are going… phew… and I have a bed when I get to my final destination tonight… phew again! Somewhere outside Queenstown in the Otago region here I come!!!

Napier is a cool Art Deco city situated in Hawkes Bay on the east coast of the north island. It’s so nice to get to see the place with locals as I didn’t have to do any planning for this part of my trip. I feel like lady muck getting chauffeured around since I got picked up in Auckland and now I’m at Wynn & Karina’s, I could easily be at home and I can do my washing!!

One of the most impressive sites out this neck of the woods is Cape Kidnappers which is the headland of an 8km peninsula jutting into The Pacific Ocean. It’s a long hike out there and it has to be well timed with low tides so the best way to get out there is by quad bike. Now it just so happens that my hosts have a quad bike so we saddle up and off we go…

As we’re riding along looking at the beautiful scenery, I’m thinking to myself that I should have named this blog “Nervous Nelly goes on an Adventure”. I’m holding on for dear life thinking I’m going to fall off the back of this thing and I realize although I do lots of adventurous things on my travels I’m afraid of everything!!! I’m afraid in the dark, I’m afraid of the water, I’m afraid of speed going downhill on a bike, I’m afraid of spiders, I’m afraid of falling and clearly I’m afraid of quad bikes [Anne Keogh – flashback me & you on quads circa 2004!] – it’s amazing that I do half the things I do – I suppose it’s all relative but anyway I’m trying to be braver!!! Oh just for the record I’m not afraid of rollercoasters – love them!! Anyhooo I digress…. so we are flying over gravel and rocks along Cape Kidnappers and once I get over the initial fear of flying off the back and smashing my head against a rock, I really enjoy it and even manage to loosen my death grip to take some photos….

At the end of the headland is a gannet reserve and we see lots of the birds

A jump shot cos why not

On Friday evening the newlyweds have some friends over for a bbq. The grub was delicious and there was a lot of particularly good red wine had… hmm tomorrow will be interesting!

It’s Saturday morning and that means parkrun. There’s a local one in Anderson park just five minutes from the house so off I set, hangover in tow but determined not to miss this second of my trip so far. It’s an 8am start but it’s already hot.. there’s another international visitor today from Aberdeen and it’s great to have some company for the run. Her husband kindly took a photo of us after finishing… can you tell we are glistening!

Today we are heading into town to see the parade as it’s the Art Deco festival. After the earthquake in 1931 the whole town had to be rebuilt and it was done in the Art Deco style. Now all the building fronts are protected. Town is packed and nearly everyone is dressed up so we join in the festivities:

We line up for the parade of old cars which is great fun to watch… apparently there’s over 300 cars in town for this – it’s a huge annual affair… we don’t stay to see all of them as we need a curer (you know yourself)!!

As we walk through the streets and see the Art Deco buildings we pass a bookshop which is always hard for me to pass by so we pop in. I promised myself I wouldn’t buy any books on this trip (everything I’m reading is either on kindle or ebooks) but I get chatting to the author who tells me he wrote this book which is inspired by his maternal grandparents… girls meets priest and falls in love… it’s set in Napier around the time of the big earthquake so I’m sold! [later and a few chapters in I’m loving it]

It’s very hot, very busy and we are all a little delicate so we decide to spend the rest of the day poolside reading and napping.. heaven!

Next day, feeling a lot brighter Karina and I visit the Hastings farmers market where we have a delicious bacon sambo while rambling around checking out the stalls and tasting as we go. From there we do a spot of shopping which includes a chocolate store and a local arts and crafts shop where I’m delighted to purchase a pounamu (greenstone) necklace.

After a bit of cool down time at home we head back out for a spot of wine tasting because this is something that HAS to be done when in this neck of the woods. We go to Mission Estate Winery:

This is the oldest winery in New Zealand dating back to 1851 and was actually a seminary in the last century. [It also happens to be where the priest from the book I’m reading studied]. It has a lot of character and nice views of the vineyards below.

We taste Pinot Gris, Savignon blanc, Chardonnay, Rose, Pinot Noir, Syrah and a dessert wine and all are really good.

It’s just us girls today so we opt to finish out the day by the pool, again reading and napping (well napping for me). We have a lovely chat over dinner and polish off the Pinot noir from the Mission winery … well it is our last night together!

Monday morning after saying our goodbyes, I get chauffeured to Bluff Hill lookout for a last view of the port and the bay before heading to the airport.

The airport may be the cutest I’ve ever been in. It’s really small, super clean, no security checks and you just walk outside to the plane about 15 minutes before takeoff… I wish I could fly like this all the time.

I board the small plane and am heading for Christchurch…. South Island here I come….

Gisborne is a little off the beaten track for visitors like myself so it’s great to be with some locals and get to see this part of the country. We reach Whispering Sands, which is right on the beach at Gisborne, in the afternoon. We take a walk along the beach boardwalk to the harbour which also involves walking along the old railway tracks. There were kids jumping from the walkway into the water below one cute little mauri boy who was terrified but got talked into it… very cute.

This is also the spot where Captain Cook found and put New Zealand on the map and there’s a statue to mark it:

We hit the wharf bar and restaurant for some happy hour drinks and an early dinner. I have the ” fish and chops” although I haven’t really heard anyone pronounce it like that! Back at our beachfront motel we watch the sunset with a nice glass of wine.

It’s a beautiful morning next day so I put my runners on and head up the beach for a 5km run. The beach goes on for ages with beautiful cliffs in front so it’s a very pretty run. Am glad to be finished before 9am as it’s already really hot.

Next on this agenda is snorkeling. We get our gear together and go to Te Tapuwae o Rongokako marine reserve. It’s shallow water but lots of reef to see and we are only in two minutes when we see a little octopus – it’s so cute. We see lots of little fish and a handful of bigger ones and it’s great fun just swimming around.

When we come out of the water a seal has made its way onto the beach to say hello!

Fearing the weather might change, although it stays hot and sunny all day, we head back to our place for lunch and a swim (I use that word lightly!) in our beach. The water is gorgeous and I float in a few waves (still terrified of those big ones!!) with my noodle and I’m happy out.

After the dip it’s time for a walk along the beach and it’s so nice I walk for ages and forget to turn back… it must be over an hour later when I return, a little sunburnt (not much though) after being in the salty water. We chill for the rest of the afternoon until it’s time for dinner. For dinner we visit Wynns nephew and his adorable family. He’s quite the cook and the giant fish starter is amazing. We have salmon tails, muscles and abalone which is locally called paua and was caught locally by our host – amazing! I also had kumara which is the local sweet potato.

Next day after watching the sun rise [Gisborne claims to be the the first city on earth to see the sun rise] we get on the road “home” to Napier.

Lots of nice scenery to see again and it’s hot and sunny. At a little tea stop on the way I find some locally produced beauty products which feel and smell gorgeous – a honey facial wash and a Rotorua mud moisturizer – looking forward to using these. Our drive takes us through another gorge and around the devils elbow. The scenery is stunning :

With lots of sheep as you’d imagine – you can’t really see them here but they’re dotted on the hills

and we pass through the Mohaka Viaduct :

Once we get through the gorge and back onto flat land, Hawke’s Bay appears quite suddenly with a beautiful coastline in front of us:

I’m very excited to arrive at Karina and Wynns home which is a cool mission style house. I get the tour and get to chill out and do some washing!! More on Napier next…..

I arrive at 2am after a ten hour flight from Kuala Lumpur and it’s straight to bed so I’ll have some energy for my first Southern Hemisphere Park run in the morning. When I was planning this trip back in November I specifically organized it around park runs – crazy as that may sound, it will make sure I at least keep up 5k every week and I think it’ll make it easier to get out more during the week too. Park runs are all over NZ and Australia so this is my first of hopefully eleven on this trip. I have great intentions so hopefully will get them all in.

After very little sleep I’m up at 7am and ready to take on the first parkrun. I uber to Western Springs Park which is less than ten minutes on the motorway from my hotel and it’s right by the zoo. It’s a nice course with three laps around a lake. It’s much hotter than the weather looks so I could do with a bit of rain but it holds off for the actual run. Afterward while looking for WiFi to call an Uber a guy connects me to his hotspot and actually walks me to the other end of the park and waits with me til the uber arrives – what a nice intro to the people of NZ.

When I get back to the hotel and shower I decide to have a little snooze as I’m gonna need it to last the day ahead…. cut to three hours later and I jump out of bed to get organized… I’ve a wedding to go to!

My friend Karina who has lived in NZ for about fifteen years is tying the knot today and I’m thrilled to be here for the occasion. The weather has not cooperated for an outdoor ceremony but it doesn’t impact the fun of the day as we drink champagne and get ready for the nuptials. The view from the hotel which backs onto the Auckland Viaduct Harbour is pretty impressive:

It’s a lovely ceremony with a few close friends and family and I complete my ring bearer duties with poise and grace (if I do say so myself lol!!). Congratulations Wynn and Karina!

After the ceremony we go downstairs to Giraffe restaurant which is run by NZ Master Chef judge Simon Gault. The food is amazing and the man himself is there and gives us a wave from the open kitchen area. It really is a feast of food especially the suckling pig and the monster fish:

After an amazing meal we hit LuLu’s bar for some more drinks and dancing. There’s a brilliant band doing jazzy style covers with a three-piece brass section and they really get the crowd going. Great end to a great day.

Sunday morning and there’s not much Auckland sightseeing to be done as the weather is not great. I did manage to get to see the sky tower in between clouds mind you…

It lashes rain while we have breakfast so we set off from a very wet Auckland to Waitomo.

This is Day 1 of the honeymoon and Wynn is doing the driving. It’s a tough one as it’s bucketing down but the rain eases and the driving conditions improve somewhat as we get closer to Waitomo. There’s still some lovely scenery to see along the way. We reach Waitomo in the afternoon and head for our cave tour.

It’s fascinating! The size of the caves themselves are impressive and we see stalagmites (the ones that grow up) and stalactites (the ones that grow down) but the big draw are the glow worms:

Our guide is called James Brown, a young Mauri lad with a very unique peculiar way of talking…. lots of pauses in odd places – it was very hard to know if he was being funny or just a bit special!

After the glow worm cave we visit the Discovery Centre and museum to find out what these little glow worms are all about. There’s a very informative video and it seems these tiny worms known as arachnocampa luminosa are about the size of a mosquito and are actually the lava of a gnat. They glow when they are hungry and they capture prey by hanging threads of silk from their nests, which capture flies and other insects, which they then feed on. Quite amazing for such a small creature.

Time for some dinner at a local eatery and back to our Caves motel for a reasonably early night, as let’s face it, we are all dealing with some level of hangover from yesterday!

Monday morning we set off for Lake Taupo and the weather has brightened up considerably. The lake is very picturesque and we have a lovely wander around.

There’s a scenic lookout point before we continue on to Huka falls:

Huka falls is fabulous and the weather is gorgeous for us to explore..

Onwards on our journey we pass huge pipes that really stick out on the beautiful green hills. They are piping water to be used for geothermal heating and energy.. amazing.

As soon we arrive at Rotorua you can smell the sulphur in the air. It really is like boiled eggs. We check into our digs.. the very fancy Fern Motel (pity about the smell!!!) and head for Te Puia to see the mud fields and hot geysers. The main geyser has constant activity and then a big spurt a couple of times an hour…

It’s very cool walking around the park as the boiling springs and bubbling mud are everywhere:

You can’t visit Rotorua without a dip in the hot springs so we head to the Polynesian spa for some water therapy. This place is amazing. There are five hot pools of varying heat and they are really relaxing to float around in. We decide to treat ourselves to massages and take the last three available appointments. None of us quite know what we’re booked for but as it turns out Karina has a water therapy massage, Wynn a Swedish massage and I get a mud wrap massage… all were amazing and we are totally chilled when we come out.

Tuesday morning before getting on the road to Gisborne we have breakfast in downtown Rotorua and visit a park called Kuirau which has thermal springs and mud pools all around…

Carrying on our road trip, we stop off on the peninsula of Ohope where at the general store, which is more or less at the tip of the peninsula, you can see the beach on one side and the Harbour on the other. We go for a walk along the beach where there are lots of tree branches washed up and pick some tiny purple shells

Onwards to Opotiki through some farm country and more lush greenery and through the 60km or so of the Waioeka gorge. Before setting off today we read about warnings on the road and we see there are workers removing fallen trees and bush. You have to take it easy on these roads after bad weather as there is often fallen debris:

The gorge is beautiful to drive through…

Next stop the beach at Gisborne…..