We are back in Guatemala and have a long drive from the Honduras border at El Florido to Panajachel at Lake Atitlan. Thankfully our vehicle is very comfy, as with a brief lunch break and some crazy traffic, it ends up being a ten hour journey – lots of reading and blogging time! 😀
Our lunch stop is at an interesting restaurant in Tecpan called Katok. The area is known for its strong preservation of Mayan traditions, customs, and language. The restaurant serves grilled meats and local made sausages which we try and it’s really nice.
As we approach the town we get some beautiful views of the mountains which are mostly volcanoes that surround the lake. We arrive to Panajachel which is one of the towns around the beautiful lake where we will stay for the next 3 nights. Our hotel is called Dos Mundos and our room looks out to a nice garden and pool. It’s a great location on the main street really close to the lakefront. We’ve managed to arrive before it gets dark so we drop our bags and get straight to the lake for the first view as the sun is about to set. [sidebar: this is not my first time to see this beautiful part of the world, I was here in 2013 with some pals from Juniper and we took a trip to this very town which I have little recollection of but I do remember the stunning lake and volcanic mountains]
There’s a nice walk-way along the water so we walk as far as we can, enjoying the views of this volcanic caldera that is Lago de Atitlán.
Lunch was fairly late today so we have a light bite to eat at The Little Spoon, a cute cafe where you do need to navigate dogs on the floor though!!
On our first full day we meet our guide, Reginaldo (Regis for short), in our lobby and he takes us on a tour of some of the towns via local transport – that means on the chicken bus and in the back of a lorry!!! This is our chicken bus.
The chicken bus is mental. Apparently we are lucky enough to catch one of the “party buses” and although it’s before 9am this bus is rocking. There are flashing lights, dance music and every few minutes he honks the horn which is not just a “honk honk” it’s to the tune of the birdie song or baby shark or Barbie Girl or some other dance tune – it really is mad!
The driver is also a bit crazy as he is not afraid of speeding up the hill and turning these corners at speed… On this wild journey up the mountain there are beautiful views of the lake and surrounding scenery. I spot a graveyard which is so colourful.
We arrive to the town of Sololá and learn how the Maya probably first settled here around 2000 BC when they formed small farming and fishing communities on the lake shores. There are now many small towns and villages, such as those we are visiting today and tomorrow, dotted around the lake. The Spanish, who clearly built the tower in the centre of this little town, arrived in 1523.
Regis tells us about the traditional clothing that the locals wear and how it changes from town to town. This is a great look as far as I’m concerned.
Sololá is one of the largest indigenous towns in Guatemala and the main draw, other than seeing the cool space cowboy outfits on the men, is the market. The market goes across four floors and has everything you could think of. The best part is watching the buyers and sellers from all over the region display their goods and some still bartering with their produce.
Regis takes us to a food stall so we can try some local foods. It’s not that long since breakfast but we have a small taste.
The ladies cooking the food are good fun and happy to pose for some photos.
From the market we go into the church and observe some very vocal worshippers! The Guatemalans pray out loud, sing and cry quite a bit when they’re in church. They also kneel on the floor and shuffle toward the alter while they pray. This is the first we see of this but we see it again and again in most of the churches we visit across Guatemala.
More outstanding local attire.
It’s time to head back down the hill so we take another chicken bus, this time it’s a fairly tame one without the “party” vibes. We get out at St Francis church back in Pana (most people shorten Panajachel to Pana) and get a bit of history (I can’t remember it all and I’m going to guess you’re ok with that!!).
Next we are heading to San Antonio Palopo via the back of a truck! It’s great fun getting in and out!! 🤣 Again there’s no fear from these drivers on the narrow winding roads and he tears along as the wind blows through our hair. Great fun!
San Antonio Palopo has a small ornate church that opens out to an amazing view of the lake.
It’s a beautiful day and so nice to just ramble and take it all in.
It’s a cute village where the inhabitants live mainly from agriculture and weaving. There are people selling all sorts of wares along the small streets and there are some colourful murals.
As we are admiring the town and the views an old lady is really struggling to get down some steps so Shane steps in and helps her. She’s delighted with the help and takes the opportunity to try to sell him some of her goods on the way down!!
It really is stunning close to the water down here. A small bit of history on the geography of what we see: Volcanoes were erupting for millions of years in this area but the present outline is the result of a volcanic explosion around 85,000 years ago. This eruption blocked all access to the sea, and three rivers tumbled into the newly formed crater forming today’s high-altitude lake, which is 1,562 meters above sea level. Further volcanic activity resulted in the formation of the three “cones” that we see around the lake – Atitlán, Tolimán and San Pedro. They certainly do make it an extremely scenic place to visit.
We stop into a ceramic factory (of course) and I can’t help myself buying a hand painted napkin holder although I think I’m going to use it as a vase! Then it’s on to a chocolate shop where we ask for the shortened version of the tour and the young guy talks so fast we give him a clap at the end! We buy chocolate rum (surprisingly tasty) and a chocolate beer for you know who! The chocolate covered banana is delicious!
Our final stop on today’s tour is Santa Catarina Polopo. Since 2016, a community project has been progressively repainting the houses of the village, in different colours and mostly with the deep blue traditional motifs.
We call into a shop to see the local ladies weave and make the beautiful outfits, throws, cushions etc, that you see for sale all around. They do great work but we are shopped out and although I would love to load up I don’t have room to do any damage!
Shane gets a delicious coffee made from beans roasted here and the gorgeous young girl gives us a little demo!
The truck on the way back to Pana is packed – I mean jammers – this is how the real locals travel. We are crammed in sitting and standing! No safety worries here! 😱
We survive the truck journey and grab a piece of pollo frito (fried chicken) for lunch. Then it’s back to the hotel for a cup of tea in my Copán mug.
It’s not quite roasting enough for a swim but I walk through the pool and have a little late afternoon relax ahead of the evening.
The walk to the lake from the hotel passes through this little laneway full of stalls and all sorts of things I’d love to be able to buy!
A cocktail for sunset is on the cards…
For dinner tonight we go to another Mary’s. This gets 5 stars on Google and is also mentioned in the lonely planet. It’s quite a local experience… I’m going to leave it up to the photos to tell the story! The food in fairness was quite tasty!
The next day we meet Regis for our second day of exploring, this time by boat. The sea is very rough today as there is quite a wind blowing but we manage the 12/15 minute crossing to Santa Cruz la Laguna. From here we hike what’s called the Lower Mayan Trail through the village of Jaibalito to Tzununa.
It’s a beautiful 2 hour hike along the trail path looking out to the lake and surrounding volcanic mountains. The views are absolutely stunning the whole way.
I have a bit of a dodgy tummy since last night and there’s a lot of ups and downs with a really steep bit toward the end in blistering heat. So it’s a bit of a challenge at the end but the water helps and I think a walk like this is a must-do if you’re here.
It really is a stunning walk to do, I just wish my brain had engaged properly this morning and I’d worn the runners that I brought for this as opposed to my shiny new white On Clouds!! They are not going to be white after this!!!
When we finish the hike we take another boat to San Juan. This has a familiar look to it and I’m pretty sure I was here back in 2013 with the girls. It is such a lovely walk from the boat up the hill and there’s so many shopping opportunities.
There’s always a church to visit and this village is no exception.
We stop for some hydration, which I definitely need, and what better than coconut water, it’s really delicious.
We walk further and stop at a place to see some Mayan bees. I’ll be honest by now I feel like I need a lie down and I’m not overly interested in the info the young lad is telling us (I know I’m terrible!) but I do learn that Mayan bees do not sting and there are thousands of types. We see big ones and tiny ones and taste some honey that is all quite different. Interesting but we’re not purchasing anything so we move on. We pass some brightly painted and decorated streets and see more murals.
It’s time to head back to Pana and Regis has given us plastic ponchos in case we get wet (like we did this morning) but of course we’re prepared now so the water is calmer and they’re not needed!
Back at the casa I have a little rest before we head to one of the many bars on the lake for our final sunset which isn’t bad at all. I’m sticking to the Sprite for tonight!
Our final dinner is at Humaya restaurant. I’ve definitely perked up after the bit of a rest and the drugs from this morning seem to be kicking in so I’m going to risk some dinner. It’s a brave move and I order a chicken burger expecting something small and plain but a very fancy dinner arrives… I enjoy the bit I can eat and hope for the best!!
Next morning we leave lake Atitlan after 3 lovely nights and take a shuttle to Antigua via Chichicastenango or Chichi for short. We have a few hours here before continuing on to Antigua. The shuttle company are very organised and hold our luggage until we’re ready to board the next shuttle so it means we can explore Chichi without having to worry about our bags.
The market is big and fairly chaotic. It’s busy and there are also people walking around the edges trying to sell their wares. There’s a funny moment where we’re walking through the market and Shane turns to tell me something but three women have gotten in between us – he turns and realises it’s not me but I can still see him as I can see over all their heads… yes that’s right – I am tall in Guatemala!
There are two churches on each side of the market. They’re similar in the steps on approach but quite different inside.
We get some food at one of the stalls. I’m taking it very easy as the tummy has been bad again so just have a little rice with sauce and the lady throws in some chips on the side. Shane has a chicken soup/stew and of course it’s served with tortillas.
We walk all around the periphery of the market and then it’s time to get back to the shuttle to continue on our journey.
It takes just over two hours to reach Antigua as the driver flies along and takes no prisoners on the road!! Great for us as it’s still light so we can get out and explore. Our hotel is called Palacio Chico and it has a beautiful courtyard and semi outdoor seating area.
Antigua is famous for being a colonial town surrounded by three giant cones: Volcán de Agua, which destroyed the first Guatemalan capital; Volcán de Fuego, active and smoking plumes of gas; and slumbering Volcán Acatenango, the largest but least threatening of the trio.
It’s a really cool town and I’ve no doubt we are going to visit many churches and convents and ruins walk every cobbled street there is to walk! So it’s time to get started…
On the main square is the cathedral which was originally built in 1545 but of course was ravaged by earthquakes. It has a beautiful facade.
There are so many beautiful buildings to observe both by day and at night when they’re beautifully lit up. I have an amazing photo on my wall at home that I tool back in 2013 but I can’t figure out which building it is.. it could be this but it doesn’t feel right.
Shane has sussed out two breweries in Antigua so we check out the first one called ABC – Antigua Brewing Company. It’s very popular as it has a terrace with a great view. This evening however the top of the Volcán de Agua mountain is covered in cloud. We have a drink here (I’m unfortunately on the sprite) and then take a walk to a low key (very low key!!) “restaurant” for some dinner. I’m yet again keeping it very simple with some rice and fish (I’m afraid to eat what looks like a very nice salad that’s also on my plate!!).
After dinner I feel a renewed energy so we decide to check out the second brewery on the list. Th bar is called Deposito and the brewery is Cervazaria 14. This place is fantastic. They have live music and not only a great selection of beer (for himself obviously) but they have cider and what looks like a decent selection of wine. We have a great night here sitting at the bar and enjoying the music.
We are definitely coming back here tomorrow when I’m hoping to be back on the booze!
Next day we have a full day by ourselves with no tours organised so we are free to wander and explore. So after a bit of a lie-in and the usual Guatemala. breakfast of eggs, beans, a piece of cheese, plantain served with bread and sometimes an extra piece of fruit, we are off. Across the street is Santa Clara so we start there.
The nuns of St Claire arrived to the city in 1669 and this convent and church was built in 1705. Many earthquakes over the years ruined the buildings which were rebuilt at various times. It is quiet and peaceful walking around the cloister and ruins and the small museum.
We continue wandering and explore more churches and beautiful facades of buildings that no doubt were glorious in their day… like this one.
Next we visit Iglesia de la Merced. Another Catholic Church and convent dating from the 1700’s.
This is where they’ve hidden the Antigua sign!
We walk though the busiest street in Antigua with the Arco de Santa Catalina. The iconic photo of Antigua is taken here through the arch with the backdrop of Volcán de Agua volcanic mountain. Unfortunately as you can see today it’s still covered in cloud and we cannot see the top! Maybe later or tomorrow… we will be on cloud watch all day so fingers crossed!
We walk to the market and while it looks small as we approach, it is huge and we actually get to a point where we struggle to find our way out! It has all the usual crafts, produce and food stalls. Behind the market is the bus station so we see lots of chicken busses.
We have an amazing lunch at a place Shane found called “La Cuevita de Los Urquizu” that serves the most delicious stews with a choice of two sides. We walked by earlier and the queue was really long so we’ve come back for a late lunch and there’s no queue at all. I go for the lamb and Shane has the traditional chicken. It is delicious.
Onwards to Museo de Colonial Art which used to be the university and is the most in tact building in Antigua. The building is on the 100 quetzal note so I try to recreate the image… not quite so good!!
We wander more streets and it’s just lovely everywhere you look.
Back at the square….
We go inside the cathedral which is surprisingly very plain. There are a lot of people praying on their knees.
We pay to go into the ruins of the original cathedral which are attached and these are my favourite to explore and photograph.
Stunning every which way you look, especially upwards as this huge cathedral had many domes.
We head toward our hotel and see the old laundry monument – a very popular spot to gather.
This is where the ladies of Antigua used to send their servants to do laundry. Today it’s a fountain and all the washbasins are empty.
Tonight we’re going back to the bar we were at last night which is something we rarely do but it was so good and I want to try a cider plus there are a lot more beers Shane wants to try. There’s a different guy playing music and he’s very good. It’s always entertaining to hear English songs sung by people where English is not their first language. This guy also put quite a spin on some tunes. He was very enjoyable
Next morning we are up at the crack of dawn to climb Volcano Pacaya. We are picked up just after 6am and drive about an hour and a half to join a group and hike up. As we drove through the towns we drove through a really old fashioned town where the men are in traditional clothes and there are horses on the road and then we drive through a super modern, almost American town with a row of newly built houses and some industrial buildings and big supermarkets. As we get closer we get a great view of the volcano we will climb.
It’s really cold, even at the base of the mountain and we are in jackets for the first time on this trip. Pacaya is an active volcano and goes to 2,552 metres. The views around are stunning.
It’s really windy, dusty and it’s a very steep climb. We can only go so far as since the last volcanic activity you are no longer able to get to the very top. When we get to the highest point of the climb unfortunately our view is covered with cloud. A shame but a great climb nonetheless.
We do see lots of lava though and there are still hot sections where the guide toasts marshmallows for us and another group are cooking a pizza!
It’s a little calmer on the way down and the views really are worth it.
It’s another hour and half back to Antigua and I really need a cup of tea. Fair play to Shane he susses out where there’s a chance for me to get a “proper cup of tea” – it’s called Coffea. I order a black and tea and well this is a first – tea served in a carafe. It’s an excellent cuppa all round!
We are ready for lunch and go to the amazing El Comalote. The tortillas are made with indigenous corn and are quite unique from others we’ve had. The ladies make them at the front of the restaurant and they are different colours.
The decor is also fantastic. All the tables and chairs are painted bright colours. It’s a really cool place. The giant freshly made lemonade was delicious and the food – I had fish tacos – was also really good.
We do a bit of a pub crawl for the afternoon. The first bar, “Cafe No Se” is really dark and almost dungeon like!! It takes a while for us to focus and see around but the barman and owner (we assume) are really friendly and chat to us for ages. The owner introduces himself as Juan and tells us a bit about the bar and shares some stories about Semana Santa and watching the processions.
On the way to the next bar we pop into another convent and admire some ruins!
At the far end of town we find another little bar called the alchemist and have a margarita – it is served quite differently to any we’ve had to date. The tequila and ice are provided in a glass and when we pour in the mix provided in a small bottle, the colour of the drink changes to almost purple!
Next is Pappys BBQ for one – the margarita is delicious! It’s made with Patron so expensive but the bar is very American so we move along. The sun is just going down and the chicken busses look great with all their lights on!!
For our last dinner in Guatemala we go to La Casa de Las Sopas. Another find of Shane’s that serves ceramic bowls of soup. I order Hilacha and Shane has the foot (yes I said foot!) soup. I take advantage of there being wine on the menu and have a very nice glass.
The food is great here but service is shocking and there’s generally a queue to get in. it was worth the wait though.
On our last morning we have a 7am pick up but decide to be ready a little early so on the off chance there’s no cloud on the volcano we can get some nice photos. When I pop outside to have a look, our last driver Cecil is there so I’m exited to see him and then when I look around I’m even more excited to see there’s no cloud on the volcano.
We quickly grab the camera, after an excited hug to Cecil and head to the arch to get the money shot! A bit of low cloud has moved in by the time we get down here but we can see the top – result!
And of course we take a few more …. Credit on this one to Shane, he even managed to get a chicken bus in so I think it’s apt to leave on that note as we depart for El Salvador and say goodbye to Antigua and Guatemala. It has been amazing.
odohertyelaine 