Next morning after a bit of a lie-in and a leisurely breakfast we meet our guide at 10am to start a tour of Fès. Fès was built in 1276 and was the administrative centre of Morocco until 1912. We jump in the bus and head to the palace. You cannot go into any of the palaces of the king. This one is the oldest in Morocco dating to the 14th century.
We drive up to the highest point to get a full view of the medina and it is very impressive.
Back in the air conditioned bus (thank God!) it’s time to go to a pottery shop. It’s impressive to see how the tiles are made and cut into pieces then assembled on tables etc… such a lot of work.
We also see bowls and tagines being made.
I really want a tagine but Hocine tells me to wait for a different opportunity. I do buy a beautiful serving dish though… can’t wait to use it at home assuming I get it safely to and from Nashville (oh yeah, I’m not going home from Morocco I’m going to the US for work so all my purchases will be coming with me!).
As we head into the medina we stop to look at a number of storks on the roof of one of the buildings. They are huge and build massive nests on top of the buildings.
We spend a couple of hours walking through the souks, they seem bigger than Marrakech but I’m not sure how that’s possible!
Among the souks, hidden behind a large door is the Bou Inania Madrasa. Built between 1351 and 1357, it housed students and was an important mosque, known for its beautiful mihrab (prayer niche).
The tiles again are beautiful….
Cats are everywhere….
There are also beautiful water fountains randomly throughout the medina.
We are also treated to some entertainment… Fès style!
We also see the building (called a Zaouia) which contains the tomb of Moulay Idriss who was the founder of Fès. We look inside as “to non-Muslims respective glimpses possible through open doors”.
We are invited into a family friend of our guides house for a lunch of couscous. Hocine introduces us to another Hocine who walks the souks with us directing us at corners and regularly on his phone and greeting people along the alleyways. (It’s quite amusing) He is one of ten siblings apparently and his mother is cooking the couscous!
I’m excited as I haven’t had couscous yet. It is a giant serving that initially we think is just vegetables but there seems to be nearly a full chicken under there and it seems never ending.
We all eat our fill but there is still lots left.
We finish with fruit and of course some mint tea that Hocine pours for us.
There’s a fair amount of shopping getting done today. We buy beautiful blue scarves (that was on my list) and now we’re heading to the tannery. I’ve never seen a tannery and it’s very impressive but the stink is rotten. Luckily on the way in we are handed a bunch of mint – I have mine practically shoved up my nose!
It’s time for a bit of bargaining as these Australians aren’t very good at it (sorry lads I know you’re reading this but I think you’ll agree!!). Belts, slippers and bags have been purchased and I think I did a fairly ok job on the price but I know if I had my sister or supperclub girls with me we’d have gotten an even better price!!! It’s fun though… and the sales guy tells me I bargain like a Berber woman – apparently that’s a compliment!
There are so many pretty little streets around the medina.
The walls of Fès are extensive. I like the ruins just outside where we are staying…
It gets to 37 degrees today and we are all roasting and a bit knackered. A couple of the crew have a touch of the lurgy or, as we like to call it the Monique-a-virus!! time to jump into the cold pool to cool down…
There are beautiful products in the huge bathroom in our rooms so I take advantage of the black soap and scrub to do a mini hamamm!
At 7pm it’s time for a sundowner on the terrace and we listen to the call to prayer from up there… it is impressive when it starts as there are many competing calls.
Once it’s dark we take a walk to a low key restaurant that we can see from our terrace. There’s a camel burger on the menu so I know what I’m having.
Next morning another lovely breakfast is served at the riad…
And then we take our leave of Fès and drive approximately an hour to Meknés.
More walls to see and we visit the mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl, who ruled Morocco from 1672 to 1727 and was considered the most bloodthirsty in Moroccan history. He also fathered 867 children with 500 women!! He founded the current dynasty (the Alouite dynasty) and the current king – King Mohamed VI is a direct descendant.
The current king has just two children a son 19, and a daughter 10 and seems to be separated from his extremely popular and progressive wife. Apparently before this wife (who doesn’t seem to be given the title of queen), no one ever seen the wife of the king. This is the first one they’ve seen!! Hocine assures is that the rights of women have undergone a lot of changes for the better in recent years and a lot of this is down to the king and his wife.
Every section has more beautiful archways doors and tiles
The most beautiful gate in all of Morocco (the blue gate) is unfortunately under renovation That was a short stop but a good one.
Meknés (the capital of Morocco at one point) is a busy town and before we exit we stop for an ATM and some water. There’s a bit of confusion as the bus needs to move from where we pulled in. After a bit of rambling around all are accounted for and we can continue on our way.
We stop for lunch in the town of Moulay Idriss. This is the birthplace of the founder of Fès and is a picturesque town on a hill.
It is a holy city and for those Moroccans who cannot get to Mecca they make a pilgrimage here. Moulay Idriss was the first Islamic leader and a direct descendant of the prophet Mohammed. He died in 791 and was buried in this town although I’m pretty sure we peeped into the place of his tomb yesterday in Fès (slightly confused.com). Non Muslims are not permitted to visit his mausoleum. At least that stacks up!
We have a delicious meal of meat on the grill with beautiful tomatoes and grilled onion.
We are eating with some locals who all bid us Bon appetite.
A short journey by bus back down the hill and “across the road” to the Roman ruins at Volubilis.
Founded in the 3rd century BC, this was an extensive city and the ruins are quite vast. They are the most extensive in Morocco and are impressive by any standards.
Among some mosaics and lots of pillars, we see the impressive basilica.
The countryside is very different from what we’ve seen in previous days. Meknés and the surrounding area is where most of the vineyards and olive trees are.
We continue the drive toward Chefchaouen but I will save that for the next blog post…. Inshallah!
odohertyelaine 