In our remote resort in Skoura, we have our first breakfast buffet and it has all the usual suspects but also includes eggs and some mystery meat. It’s delicious as usual. We’re all done by 8:30am and are ready to explore more of this interesting countryside. First stop is Amerhidil kasbah.
We walk around the back of the building to a room where we have an opportunity to view some handmade carpets. This carpet shop is a woman’s cooperative supported by the USA. All of the money spent will go directly to the women and families who weave the carpets (hopefully)!
Of course we are treated to some mint tea while the carpets are rolled out for our viewing! I’m personally not a huge fan but they are indeed pieces of art in themselves and we do get a sale to be shipped to Australia.. woohoo!!
Back on the bus I’m loving the barren scenery with palm groves dotted around.
We drive through the Valley of Roses where each spring 3,000 to 4,000 tonnes of petals are picked. We stop to see what products they make but no sales are made – the rose smell is too strong for me. As we continue along the road of 1,000 kasbahs we see many old abandoned kasbahs in favour of the new towns where most people now live. They have given up the mud built homes for concrete.
It’s time for lunch and we arrive to a big town called Tinerhir. We pull into a restaurant that is kitted out for a large lunch spread… the tourist buses must be due. We have a very nice lunch of soup/salad and a main – I go for the beef tagine. Nice as it was, we’re hoping that the guide might take us somewhere more local in the coming days.
Onwards to the Todra Gorge….. As we drive the winding road there is beautiful scenery around every corner. Lush palm groves and old kasbahs with the cliff backdrop. It’s stunning.
We walk along the gorge where we see rock climbers, donkeys and of course carpets and clothes for sale.
A final photo opp. of the stunning valley and then it’s back in the bus for a two hour drive to the Sahara.
On the way we see some camels. They don’t have wild camels here in Morocco so a farmer will own these. They’re quite small, I hope the ones we’re gonna ride are bigger than that!
We see giant sand dunes on the horizon – we have arrived!! These dunes are the Erg Chebbi dunes in Merzouga’s Sahara desert.
We’re transferred to a four wheel drive to get closer to our camels and then it’s time to mount these dromedary’s (one humped) and ride toward the camp. The smallest of the camels is picked for me but he’s being very troublesome and won’t get up so I’m put on another. Rich tries the troublesome one too but he’s having none of it.
[Sidebar: last night I sent that video that went viral a few years back of the couple trying to get up on the back of the camel and the Titanic music playing all wonky (you know the one!), it puts the fear into everyone but it’s still so funny!]
We all manage to get up successfully and we set off across the dunes. It’s a bit nerve wracking initially but they’re fairly stable and it’s quite enjoyable once I loosen the death grip on the saddle! Fatima, Couscous, Ali Baba…. Let’s go!!
We stop to watch the sunset and the guides insist on taking all sorts of ridiculous photos where we look like we’re holding the sun or throwing sand in the air… insta shots that won’t be going on the insta!! We do get some great group shots though.
In the camel “carpark” just outside the camp the guides give us a hard sell on some souvenirs …. It’s for their families. I’ve no doubt we’re being ripped off but sure we’ll consider it a donation!! We all get a little something and I’m happy with a small bowl made of smooth stone.
The luxury campsite is impressive with each “room” containing a queen bed plus two single beds – it’s huge!! There’s a dining tent where we have a very nice 4 course meal of cauliflower soup, salad with goats cheese, an odd main considering we’re in the desert (chicken and mushroom, veg and tomato covered in creamy sauce), finished off with crème brûlée. We have a bottle of wine we saved from last night so get one decent glass each. After dinner there’s some local music which is essentially drums and what seems like repetitive roaring and shouting… we call it a day and enjoy the reduction in temperature as we head back to the tent.
Next morning we get up before 7am to see the sunrise. It brings a beautiful colour to the sand dunes.
After another delicious breakfast which always includes a big glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, it’s all aboard the bus as we set out for Fez with a few stops along the way. We are ascending over the Atlas Mountains driving along the Ziz valley with its giant palm trees.
It is date season and this south eastern part of the country is where the best dates come from. We stop at a market which is a fairly decent size and very busy and it is ALL dates. Crates and crates of dates…
We buy a box and snack on them on the bus. I’m still in awe of the landscape. Parts seem like the US mid-west and apparently are referred to as Utah and Colorado.
As we continue our drive through the Ziz valley, the scenery is impressive but it’s a long day of driving and I nod off multiple times… between the heat and the motion of the bus it’s hard not to.
We stop for lunch in the town of Midelt. It’s a late lunch and in an effort to avoid the big tourist lunch stop we eat panini style sandwiches in a local cafe. Not quite “Moroccan” food but it’s tasty and the owners are delighted for our custom. They recommend apple juice which they make fresh, one version with water and one with milk…. peculiar!!
We admire another change in the landscape and even see some water which has been rare. The rivers we’ve seen have all been dry as there’s been no rain and no snow on the mountains to melt.
We see lots of cedar trees in this part of the country and have a quick side of road stop to see the Barbary apes.
A final stop in Ifrane, known as “Little Switzerland” which is a ski resort and where the king has a residence. This is a very different little town and for sure has a European feel to it. It is pristine and full of busy cafes with families out and about. We have a coffee (I get tea in a teapot with cold milk 😀), use the facilities and we’re on the road again.
We arrive in Fez and stop at Carrefour to get some alcohol (just in case there’s none at the riad) but as it turns out there was no need. Plenty of booze options available at this riad. The standby booze can wait. We have dinner at the riad which consists of multiple salads and a chicken pastisse. We have a drink on the terrace where we get a view of the medina and hear the many calls to prayer at sunset.
This riad, called Riad Mabrouka is another beautiful accommodation option.
Tomorrow we will explore Fes… but that’s for Part IV. Inshallah (God willing)
odohertyelaine 